Social-Washing: What is it and how to prevent it?
The intersection of fashion and sustainability has become a hotbed for debate, drawing attention to practices within the industry that often prioritise quick profit over environmental responsibility and ethical labour practices. Among the various players in this sector, fast fashion brands have been particularly scrutinised for their role in promoting a culture of disposable clothing, characterized by rapid production cycles and an endless churn of new trends. This has led to increased consumer awareness and demand for more sustainable and ethically produced clothing. In response, some brands have embarked on campaigns to highlight their sustainability initiatives, aiming to align themselves with the growing consumer consciousness of environmentalism and social responsibility.
However, this has also given rise to a phenomenon known as "social washing"—where companies make misleading claims about their sustainability efforts to improve their public image and encourage custom. One example of a company facing these accusations is H&M. Known for its cheap prices and short style cycles, H&M has made claims about its commitment to becoming more sustainable and ethical claiming “We are committed to meeting all external regulations where we do business and to doing the right thing. Acting consistently and with a strong ethical compass”. This article delves into the complexities of H&M's sustainability and social responsibility claims, evaluating the authenticity of its initiatives and exploring the implications for consumers and the industry.
One of the most notorious industries that have been accused of social washing in recent years has been the fast-fashion industry, with many brands in the sector engaging in marketing strategies aiming to shine a light on their positive social impact and commitment to uplifting communities in which they source their goods.
Popular high street fashion brand H&M, a Swedish multinational, known for its fashion clothing for men and women, operating in 74 countries within over 5,000 stores worldwide has faced criticism for its Manufacturing processes and labour conditions within its overseas workforce.
Despite these inspirational goals, H&M's sustainability claims have been met with broad criticism. Critics argue that the brand's business model, based on rapid consumption and frequent turnover of inexpensive garments, is inherently at odds with the principles of sustainability. The Conscious Collection, while marketed as a greener alternative to fast fashion amid scrutiny and investigations for “slave labour” conditions within the industry from companies like Shien, however, only represents a fraction of H&M's overall production. The impact of such collections is tainted by H&Ms large production of clothes and promotion of fast fashion, which are not considered under this collection.
The garment recycling program also faces criticism for its effectiveness. While it promotes recycling, the technology to recycle mixed fibres is still in early development, meaning that only a small percentage of collected fibres can be recycled into new textiles and the rest end up in landfills and being incinerated- which is not consistent with their promises of socially conscious actions from the brand.
Arguably most importantly, labour practices within H&M's supply chain continue to raise ethical concerns. Reports of unsafe working conditions, unfair wages, and labour rights violations in factories that produce H&M's clothes contradict the company's claims of fostering fair labour practices. Highlighting a gap between H&M's market image and the on-ground reality of its operations, as there have been several reports of the company's manufacturing abusing their workforce, blaming this on “lighting quick turn around and low overhead costs” leading to poor working conditions in their East Asian factories in which labour is cheaper and labour laws, including health and safety standards, are significantly more lax.
The criticism levied against H&M's efforts sheds light on the broader issue of social washing in the fast fashion industry. By focusing on selective sustainability initiatives, H&M seeks to shift attention from the unsustainable nature of its core business practices. This approach can mislead consumers into believing that purchasing from the Conscious Collection or participating in the garment recycling program is enough to mitigate the environmental and social impact of their fashion choices when in fact these initiatives can be seen as a minimal, surface-level attempt at doing “your part” within promoting ESG initiatives.
This strategy not only affects consumer perception but also has broader implications for the industry. It sets a precedent where minimal efforts toward sustainability can be exaggerated for marketing purposes, potentially stalling genuine efforts to address the industry's environmental and social challenges at its core. The emphasis on recycling and sustainable materials, while important, does not tackle the fundamental issues related to overproduction and excessive consumption that underpin the fast fashion model.
What can be done moving forward?
For consumers seeking to navigate the complexities of ethical consumption in the face of social washing, informed decision-making becomes incredibly important However this may become increasingly difficult within the landscape of misleading promises and surface-level commitments that some brands are making. However, Secondary research platforms such as independent certifications, third-party audits, and sustainability reports can be used to gauge the authenticity of a brand's commitments.
Additionally, consumer advocacy plays a crucial role in pushing for greater transparency and accountability in the fashion industry. By voicing concerns, supporting legislative efforts to regulate corporate sustainability claims, and prioritizing spending on brands with proven ethical practices, consumers can influence the market, under capitalism, towards more genuine sustainability efforts.
H&M's journey through the maze of sustainability claims and the reality of its business practices highlights the pervasive challenge of social washing in the fast fashion industry. While the company has made strides towards addressing environmental and social issues, the fundamental conflict between its fast fashion model and ethical labour practices remains unresolved.
For the industry to move forward, a shift in consumer behaviour, paired with a reevaluation of the fast fashion business model is essential. By championing transparency, supporting ethical brands, and advocating for systemic change, consumers can play a key role in. shaping a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry. This transition is not only crucial for the environment and workers in the supply chain but also for building a fashion ecosystem that values ethical integrity above fleeting trends and fast profits.
Bibliography
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